Nikon EN-EL14+

Short answer: Nikon’s official EN-EL14 family has only two generations — the EN-EL14 (7.4V / 1030mAh) and the EN-EL14a (7.2V / 1230mAh). The EN-EL14a holds roughly 20% more and works in every body that takes the EN-EL14; the widely seen “EN-EL14+” is not an official Nikon model but a third-party label for a compatible, higher-capacity pack. So when choosing, only two things really need confirming: which generation your body shipped with, and whether the voltage and capacity on the label are honest.

What actually differs between the two

The EN-EL14 dates from around 2010 and arrived with the D3100, then went on to be used across a long list of APS-C DSLRs and Coolpix P models. The EN-EL14a appeared after 2013 with improved cells, lifting capacity to 1230mAh and nudging nominal voltage from 7.4V to 7.2V.

Model	Nominal voltage	Capacity	Energy	Common original fitment
EN-EL14	7.4V	1030mAh	About 7.7Wh	D3100, D3200, D5100, D5200, P7000, P7100, P7700
EN-EL14a	7.2V	1230mAh	About 8.9Wh	D3300, D3400, D3500, D5300, D5500, D5600
“EN-EL14+”	Usually 7.2V	Varies by maker	Varies by maker	Not official; a third-party designation

The two generations share identical dimensions, terminal positions and latch, so physically they swap. The differences are capacity and the body’s battery identification strategy — and that is the root of every compatibility question that follows.

One common misconception worth correcting: the D3400, D3500, D5300, D5500 and D5600 all ship with the EN-EL14a, not the EN-EL14. If the manual for your D5600 says 14a, that is correct and you have not bought the wrong thing.

Compatibility: new works down, old comes with a discount

Nikon’s statement on the two generations is clear: the EN-EL14a can be used in all bodies that take the EN-EL14. In other words, older cameras such as the D3100, D5100 and P7700 run perfectly well on a 14a, and because capacity is higher, they last longer than with the original.

The reverse needs care. Newer bodies from the D3400 onward were designed around the 14a, and a first-generation EN-EL14 will usually still power up and shoot, but the charge estimate may be inaccurate — dropping bars faster or warning of an empty battery early. The cause is a different recording chip revision inside the pack, so the remaining-charge curve the body reads does not match.

This does not affect image quality or the shutter, and it will not damage the camera; it is purely a usability discount. If you have a pile of old EN-EL14 packs you want to keep using in a newer body, treating them as emergency spares is reasonable — as the main battery, less so.

Can the chargers be shared

Yes. Both generations use the MH-24 series dock, which is the most convenient part of this ecosystem — one dock covers the entire EN-EL14 family. Note that the first-party dock is strict about third-party packs and may occasionally stop partway through, so a universal charger is often less trouble.

Choosing by body

D3400 / D3500 / D5600: buy the EN-EL14a

These are the 14a’s original fitments, so buying a 14a carries no compatibility risk at all. On runtime, the official CIPA figures for the D3400 and D3500 are both above a thousand shots, with the D5600 slightly lower; a single pack covers most of a day out and two will see you through a full one.

Note that none of these DSLRs offers in-body USB charging, so the dock is the only route. Do not count on a power bank to rescue you on a trip — an extra battery is more useful than a power bank here.

D3100 / D3200 / D5100 / D5200: the 14a is the better buy

These shipped with the EN-EL14, but the 14a works perfectly and holds about 20% more. Unless you specifically want an exact match to the original, there is little reason to buy the first generation. First-generation packs are cheaper on the used market, so if you only need a spare, they remain a reasonable option.

P7000 / P7100 / P7700: watch the size and the original spec

The Coolpix P series uses the same battery system. The P7000, P7100 and P7700 all originally shipped with the EN-EL14, and the 14a works equally well. These cameras have tight compartments, so a third-party pack with poor shell tolerance can be hard to insert or remove; favour products with a consistent reputation for build quality.

Compacts like the P7700 draw more than a DSLR — the screen stays on and the zoom motor works constantly — so real frame counts usually come in below those of a DSLR. Plan on two packs from the start.

What “EN-EL14+” really is

On marketplaces the “EN-EL14+” spelling is very common, but it does not appear in Nikon’s official model list. It usually means a third-party pack that is compatible with the EN-EL14 family and holds more than the original. Some makers use it to mean “upgraded”, others as pure marketing.

So when you see “14+”, do not infer performance from the model name — go back to the label: is the voltage 7.2V or 7.4V, what capacity is quoted in mAh, what energy in Wh. Those three numbers are what can actually be compared. Some products labelled “EN-EL14+” claim above 2000mAh, and figures far beyond the original spec usually mean the usable capacity is lower than advertised.

If all you want is a dependable replacement, treat it as “a third-party battery compatible with the EN-EL14 family” and stop worrying about the plus sign. Single-model specialists such as YO print voltage, capacity and supported bodies directly on the packaging, which is safer than reading the title. More on identifying the models is on the EN-EL14+ category page.

FAQ

Can the EN-EL14 and EN-EL14a be mixed?

Yes. A 14a in an older body is fine and holds more, while a first-generation pack in a body from the D3400 onward will still shoot but may show an inaccurate charge level. When mixing, make the 14a the primary.

Will an EN-EL14 damage a D5600?

No. The voltage range is compatible and the body has protection circuitry. Any issue is limited to charge estimation and does not affect the hardware.

Why do third-party packs quote much higher capacity than the original?

Some quote bare-cell capacity while the manufacturer quotes usable capacity, so the two are measured differently. In practice a third-party pack labelled 2000mAh is not necessarily longer-lasting than a 1230mAh original, and reported real-world results are more reliable than the number.

Is this battery compatible with the EN-EL15?

No. The EN-EL15 is larger, runs at 7.0V, and is used by the D7000 series and Z-series mirrorless bodies, so the two cannot be swapped — see the EN-EL15 category page. For another entry-level DSLR system worth comparing, the compatibility logic of the Canon LP-E6 series is a useful contrast.

Short answer: no. Nikon’s first-party EN-EL14 and EN-EL14a have no USB-C port and can only be charged in the MH-24 series dock. The “EN-EL14+” spelling indicates nothing about charging either — it is not an official Nikon model but a third-party naming convention for compatible packs. Compatible EN-EL14 batteries with a built-in USB-C port do exist, but that is a manufacturer adding a charging circuit inside the case, a product design difference with no fixed link to the model suffix. The only reliable way to tell whether a pack charges directly is to look for the port on the physical item.

Three checks: do not trust the listing title

First, look for a port

A genuine USB-C direct-charge pack has a Type-C socket on the side or base, usually with a small indicator light beside it. The first-party EN-EL14 series has a fully closed shell with no openings beyond the terminals and the latch. Turn the pack over once — no opening means an ordinary battery, whatever the title says.

Second, read the label

The label should carry three figures: nominal voltage, capacity and energy. The EN-EL14 is 7.4V / 1030mAh and the EN-EL14a is 7.2V / 1230mAh, putting energy at roughly 7.7Wh and 8.9Wh respectively. Be cautious if a pack says only “compatible with EN-EL14” without a voltage, or claims a capacity far above first-party (2000mAh and up) — that is usually a bare-cell figure, and the usable capacity will be less.

Third, check thickness and weight

Fitting a charging circuit and a Type-C socket takes up internal space, so direct-charge packs are usually slightly thicker and heavier. The difference is small, but in a tight compartment such as the Coolpix P series it can make the door hard to close. Before buying, check whether the listing mentions extra thickness, or scan reviews for complaints about fit.

Three product types compared

Type	Physical signs	Charging	Compatibility	Best for
First-party EN-EL14 / 14a	Fully closed shell, no openings	MH-24 dock	Manufacturer guaranteed	Users who want stability and no fuss
Third-party standard compatible pack	Copy of the original shape, no openings	MH-24 or universal dock	Mostly fine; charge reading may drift	Users needing several spares on a budget
Third-party USB-C direct-charge pack	Type-C port and indicator on side or base	Phone charger + C cable	Works; slightly thicker	Light travel without a dock

All three power the camera normally; the differences are convenience and consistency. The biggest benefit of a direct-charge pack is leaving one dock and one cable at home — but there is a cost: the built-in charging circuit is usually low power, so a full charge takes two or three hours, slower than a dock.

Is a direct-charge pack worth buying

It depends on how often you travel and what you like to carry.

If you often go on short trips with one body and one lens, a direct-charge pack is genuinely convenient: a power bank and a C cable will top up the camera battery without hunting for an outlet. For camping or long hikes where steady power is unavailable, the advantage is even clearer.

If you shoot intensively and swap two or three packs a day, a dock is the better fit. A multi-bay dock charges two at once, quickly and with clear status, whereas direct-charge packs have to be filled one after another and eat time.

There is a middle path: use a first-party or standard compatible pack as the main battery and add one direct-charge pack as an emergency supply for the moments when you run flat unexpectedly. That keeps everyday efficiency while retaining the light-travel option.

Buying checklist

1. Do not infer features from a suffix. “14+”, “upgraded” and “Pro” have no agreed meaning. Look only for the port on the actual item.
2. Check that the supported bodies are named. The EN-EL14a ships with the D3300, D3400, D5300, D5500 and D5600; the EN-EL14 ships with the D3100, D3200, D5100, D5200 and the P7000 series. Anything claiming to fit “all Nikon DSLRs” can be skipped.
3. Be wary of very high capacity claims. When first-party is 1230mAh and a third-party pack claims 2200mAh at a lower price, it is almost certainly inflated or measured differently.
4. Look for a protection description. Overcharge, over-discharge and short-circuit protection are the basics, and a serious maker states them on the product page rather than only on the box.
5. Make sure the direct-charge port recognises 5V. Some packs are picky and fail to detect certain fast chargers, so check for reports of that before buying.
6. Do not stockpile. Lithium packs self-discharge and age, and one left unused for over a year loses noticeable capacity. Buy to actual use. If all you want is a spare with clearly written specs and named compatible bodies, products such as YO are usually unambiguous on the label.

For the compatibility relationship between the EN-EL14 and 14a themselves, see the companion article on the EN-EL14+ category page. If you also shoot full frame, the EN-EL15 series follows a clearer naming logic and is a useful reference for how Nikon numbers its batteries.

FAQ

Can a first-party EN-EL14a be charged over USB?

No. The first-party pack has no charging port and must go into an MH-24 series dock. The camera body also has no USB charging path for this battery, so plugging a cable in will not charge it.

Does a USB-C battery affect the camera warranty?

Using a third-party battery does not in itself affect the body’s warranty, but if a battery fault damages the camera, attributing responsibility gets complicated. Choose a brand with a clear service commitment and keep your receipt.

Can a direct-charge pack still be charged in a dock?

Usually yes — the terminals are in the same place as the original, so it fits an MH-24 or a universal dock. Some direct-charge packs have their own charge management, though, and the double management can make the dock stop early, which is normal.

Are there restrictions when flying?

Lithium batteries must be carried in the cabin and cannot be checked, with capacity and quantity limits set by the airline. The EN-EL14 series holds under 10Wh, far below common thresholds, so several packs are usually fine — see whether camera batteries can fly for the details.