Short answer: a 1050mAh asks nothing different of a charger than any other tier. Use a 7.2V lithium-ion dock charger, with Canon’s LC-E17 as the standard choice. What does change is that a full charge takes longer, and now that fast chargers are everywhere, many people assume a camera battery can be plugged in as casually as a phone. What follows covers matching a charger, how long a fill takes, when heat is worth worrying about, and which habits actually affect cycle life.
The same applies to 750mAh and 950mAh; the larger the capacity, the more charging time and heat accumulate, which is why the high-capacity version deserves more care.
Matching the three charging routes
There are three main ways to charge an LP-E17: the original dock charger, a third-party dock charger, and a direct-charge version with a Type-C port on the battery body. The first two require removing the battery and seating it in a dock; the third feeds 5V straight into the battery. Each imposes different requirements, so check the specifications when you mix and match.
| Method | Input and connector | Approximate full charge | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canon LC-E17 dock charger | Dedicated dock, with original power cord | Usually around two hours, varying with capacity and ambient temperature | Charging at home, rotating several packs | Check the model marking; avoid counterfeits |
| Reputable third-party dock | Dedicated dock, usually USB or 5V input | About two to four hours, depending on input current | Travel, tight budgets | Look for overcharge protection and thermal control |
| USB-C direct charge (T series) | Type-C on the battery body, 5V input | About two to four hours, depending on charger and cable | Travel, outdoors, top-ups | Do not treat 9V/12V high-voltage protocols as normal input |
The times in that table can only be ranges, because the same battery charged at 5V/1A versus 5V/2A differs by nearly a factor of two, and low ambient temperatures slow things further. A 1050mAh, being the largest tier, usually lands in the upper part of the range. Note in particular that direct-charge LP-E17 versions generally take 5V input, ordinary USB power, and do not use the high-voltage fast-charge protocols phones rely on.
How long a full charge takes, and why only a range is honest
Charging time is set by three variables: how much charge is already in the battery, the actual current the charger can deliver, and battery temperature. A 1050mAh rating does not mean 1050mA for one hour; the process runs constant-current then constant-voltage, with current tailing off in the second stage, and the last ten-odd percent often consumes a third of the total time.
In practice, going from nearly empty to full takes a little over two hours at 5V/2A and can approach four hours at 5V/1A. A dock charger usually runs slightly faster and steadier than in-body charging because it dissipates heat better. In cold conditions, below about ten degrees Celsius, charging slows noticeably; that is a protection mechanism, not a fault.
Heat: charging and discharging are separate questions
Mild warmth is normal. Lithium-ion cells heat up during the latter part of charging and under heavy discharge current. What matters is telling three cases apart:
- Warm while charging, cool once full: normal. Charge in a ventilated spot, and never under a pillow, inside clothing, or in a sealed bag.
- Hot after sustained recording or burst shooting in the body: that is discharge heat. It has little to do with capacity tier and comes mainly from internal resistance and the body’s heat dissipation. A few minutes switched off usually restores it.
- Noticeably hot at idle, or a swollen case: not normal. Stop using it immediately, do not keep charging, and do not attempt to vent or disassemble it.
A practical test: if the same battery stays cool in another body, the problem is probably the body; if it is still hot in a different body, the problem is the battery. The 1050mAh cell is thicker, so its heat path is slightly longer; in summer, avoid leaving the whole rig in a car or in direct sun.
Cycle life: three habits that beat any charger
- Do not store it full for long periods. Charging to full when you get home is a habit, but if the battery will sit unused for a week or two, leave it around half. Long storage at full charge accelerates aging of the positive electrode and is the most common cause of capacity loss.
- Do not run it to shutdown before recharging. An occasional deep discharge is fine, but repeated ones bring the protection board in earlier and usable capacity shrinks. Swapping at the low-battery warning is easier on the cell.
- Do a full cycle every so often. Every two or three months, run the battery fairly low and charge it fully. This helps keep the fuel gauge accurate and avoids the “shows two bars and then dies” surprise.
With these habits a 1050mAh typically holds steady for two or three years, after which a gradual decline is normal aging. If a full charge now lasts less than half as long as it did, it is time to replace rather than carry more spares. For how the tiers differ in role, see the LP-E17 capacity and compatibility guide; if your priority is leaving one dock charger at home, the T series direct-charge version is the other route.
FAQ
Can I charge a 1050mAh with a phone fast charger?
For a USB-C direct-charge version, yes: voltage negotiation usually settles at 5V and the charger drops to the tier you request. Avoid poor-quality supplies rated above 5V that cannot negotiate.
Must I unplug the dock as soon as the light turns green?
A reputable dock switches to trickle or stops output once full, so leaving it briefly is not a problem. Leaving it connected for long periods is not good for longevity, though, so taking the battery off when full is the safer habit.
How much slower is a 1050mAh than a 750mAh?
Roughly thirty to forty percent longer in proportion to capacity, and actual times also depend on charger current. On the same dock the gap is easy to notice.
What if a battery left unused will not take a charge?
Long storage in a deeply discharged state can put the protection board to sleep. Let it return to room temperature first, then try the original dock charger. If there is still no response, or the case looks swollen, do not force it. Stop using it.