Short answer: the NB-13L II is close in capacity to the OEM NB-13L (rated 1250mAh / 4.5Wh / 3.6V); the improvements are in cell consistency and cycle life, not doubled capacity. Where the two genuinely differ is charge-display accuracy and price bracket — a single OEM pack usually sits well above the budget bracket, while third-party options such as YO’s come in within it. Keep those four points separate and the decision is not hard.
First, a common misunderstanding worth clearing up: Canon makes exactly one model, the NB-13L, and there is no official “NB-13L II”. The second-generation label is a third-party manufacturer’s own product sequence naming, used to distinguish batches or cell designs. So when someone tells you the “second generation” doubles capacity, either the rating is inflated or they have misunderstood.
Capacity: let us be precise about the word
The OEM NB-13L is rated 1250mAh / 4.5Wh / 3.6V. The NB-13L II is rated close to that, and its improvement direction is cell consistency and cycle life — in plain terms, less variation between packs from the same batch and a gentler decline over time, not “twice the shots in one go”.
Why is a capacity breakthrough so hard? Because the battery compartment’s volume is fixed. Within the same 3.6V system and a similar case size, energy density is set by cell chemistry. Significantly more capacity would require a different chemistry or a larger body, and both create compatibility problems. So when you see a rating well above the OEM figure, question the rating method before believing in a technical leap.
Charge display and charging compatibility
The camera reads battery data through the contacts to estimate charge. Third-party packs are usually recognized and used normally, and Canon bodies generally do not show a “non-OEM battery” prompt, but the bar-counting algorithm was calibrated against the OEM discharge curve, so two things can happen:
- Uneven bar drops. The first three bars last well, the last one goes quickly, or the display jumps from two bars straight to a warning.
- Jumping percentages. On bodies that show a percentage, the number may not move continuously.
This does not affect operation, but it does affect your judgment of “how much longer can I shoot”. The workaround is not to rely on bars but on experience: if a pack gives you 40 minutes at room temperature, treat one remaining bar as roughly ten minutes left, rather than assuming one bar still means a long while.
Charging and dock compatibility
The OEM pairing is the LC-30 dock, which charges by insertion with the contacts at the base of the pack. Third-party packs generally work with docks of the same spec, but watch contact alignment — some third-party cases are slightly thicker and fit tightly, and repeated forced insertion wears the contacts.
Another difference is the choice of charging method. The OEM NB-13L can only be charged in a dock; third-party versions with a Type-C port can be charged by cable, which means one less charger to pack for a business trip. For travel, that is more useful than a capacity difference.
Four-point comparison
| Item | OEM NB-13L | YO NB-13L II |
|---|---|---|
| Rated capacity | 1250mAh / 4.5Wh | Close to OEM |
| Voltage | 3.6V | 3.6V |
| Cell consistency | OEM standard | A key focus of the second generation |
| Cycle life | OEM standard | A key focus of the second generation |
| Charge display | Reference curve | May deviate; bars may drop unevenly |
| Charging method | LC-30 dock | Compatible with same-spec docks; some versions support direct charging |
| Price bracket | Well above the budget bracket | Within the budget bracket |
How to pair them for best value
- One OEM pack for primary duty. For important shoots, where you need an accurate read on remaining charge, use the OEM pack and stop second-guessing.
- Two third-party packs as backups. For everyday recording, second angles, and long standby, use the NB-13L II. Lower cost, and losing one is not painful.
- Assign by use case, not by age. Give the OEM pack to situations that need precise runtime estimates, and third-party packs to situations where you can top up at any time.
- Number and rotate everything. OEM or not, rotate in order so no single pack is overworked.
Done this way, you usually save considerably over buying all OEM while keeping certainty where it matters. The NB-13L II is positioned as a dependable backup, not as a replacement for the OEM pack’s primary role. For the product line, see the NB-13L II category; for OEM specs and compatible bodies, see the NB-13L category.
FAQ
Does the bigger second-generation capacity mean more shots?
No. Capacity is close to OEM, so the actual shot count differs very little and depends mostly on shooting habits and camera age. Anyone claiming double the shots is almost certainly overstating the rating.
Can a third-party battery damage the camera?
A reputable product with overcharge, over-discharge, and over-current protection will not harm the body in normal use. The risk comes from unbranded low-grade cells and products without a protection board, so check for a clear brand name and warranty when buying.
Is it a problem to mix OEM and third-party packs?
Alternating them in the same body is fine, but do not charge them together or attempt to wire them in parallel. Charge readings may be inaccurate after a swap, so go by actual shooting time.
Why is the price so different? Where does the gap come from?
Mainly cell screening, protection-board components, quality control, and after-sales service. The OEM price also includes brand and channel costs. Third parties trim those, which is why they cost less — but quality varies widely between them, so a brand with a real model lineup and a warranty is the safer choice.