Start here: a spent NP-FZ100 is a lithium-ion cell and does not belong in household garbage. Route it to a hazardous waste point or a battery recycling stream. Inside the shell there’s organic electrolyte and recoverable metal, and both become real problems once pack is landfilled or burned. A swollen or leaking battery should come out of service immediately and be stored on its own — no more charging, no discharging, no puncturing, no burning. Four steps cover it: decide the pack is retired, store it safely, package it against shorts, then hand it over. We walk through them in that order below. Urgent handling for swollen cells is in what to do about a swollen battery.
Four signs it’s time to retire a pack
- Capacity has collapsed. Once usable capacity drops to roughly 70% of what a new pack delivers, you can’t plan a working day around it.
- Age and cycle count. Around two years in, or after several hundred cycles, internal resistance climbs and the pack cuts out early under heavy load.
- The shell has changed shape. Swelling, deformation, leakage, or a strange smell all mean it stopped being usable. Pull it now.
- Charging misbehaves. Serious heat while charging, a full pack that empties in minutes, or repeated “battery not recognized” warnings that troubleshooting doesn’t fix.
If a pack still works and you simply don’t need it — you switched systems, or you overbought — pass it to someone who can use it. Selling it on to another owner of the same body, or keeping it for a backup camera, is better for everyone than a trip to the recycler.
Interim storage: how to hold them safely
Retired packs rarely leave the house the same day, so how you store them in between matters:
- Stop charging and discharging. Especially with swollen cells. Feeding them current is the risk.
- Store them alone. Away from keys, coins, and other loose metal. One battery per bag is a good default.
- Cool, dry, shaded. No direct sun, no radiators, no summer car interior.
- Drop the charge level. If there’s still juice, bring it to roughly 40%–60% rather than parking it full.
- Nothing flammable nearby. Don’t stack retired cells next to paper, fabric, or solvents.
Swollen packs deserve a rigid container so nothing presses against them. One honest caveat: these steps lower risk, they don’t remove it. Getting them to a recycler promptly is the real fix.
Packaging and transport: preventing shorts is the whole job
- Cover the contacts. Insulating tape over the terminals, or refit the original cover.
- Separate each pack. Individual sleeves or divided cases so nothing touches anything else.
- Cushion against crushing. Box them with padding when transporting several at once.
- Damaged cells don’t ship. Swollen or leaking batteries generally fall outside carrier rules — take those to a physical drop-off.
- Flying? Spares go in carry-on only, never checked; see flying with NP-FZ100 batteries.
Which disposal route fits
| Channel | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Local household hazardous waste facility | Fully spent, physically normal packs | The standard route; follow your municipality’s sorting rules |
| Retail drop-off boxes | Most cities with electronics or supermarket collection points | Look for signage listing accepted battery types |
| Camera repair shops, electronics markets | Bulk batches in one trip | Not every store takes camera cells — call ahead |
| Municipal waste or environmental collection events | Large clear-outs, business disposal | Good fit for studios and rental houses doing periodic cleanups |
| Brand or retailer take-back | Where included in purchase terms | Depends entirely on the seller’s stated policy |
Local rules differ, so check what your municipal program says about “lithium” or “rechargeable batteries.” Many programs treat anything containing lithium as hazardous waste, while some handle small consumer cells through a separate stream.
Why the extra trip is worth it
- Materials come back. Cobalt, nickel, lithium, copper, and aluminum are recoverable through proper channels.
- Pollution avoided. Electrolyte and heavy metals shouldn’t reach soil or air through general waste.
- Fire risk drops. A damaged pack crushed inside a garbage truck can ignite. This is the most immediate reason to sort it correctly.
- Longer useful life. Handing a pack to someone who can use it, or demoting it to backup duty, beats disposal entirely.
FAQ
Can it just go in general trash?
Please don’t. Lithium cells belong in a hazardous waste or dedicated battery stream, subject to your local rules.
Is it okay to keep a swollen battery for a while?
Briefly, yes — but stop using it immediately, store it alone in a cool place, and get it to a drop-off quickly. Don’t squeeze or pierce it.
Should I discharge it completely first?
Don’t short it or force it down. Either let it run out on a low-draw device or hand it over with charge remaining; recyclers accept both.
Can several old batteries go in one shipment?
Undamaged packs with taped terminals usually qualify under carrier rules. Damaged or swollen ones typically don’t — handle those in person.
Can I trade old packs in against new ones?
That depends on the seller. Bulk and wholesale orders can be discussed through the inquiry link below.
Bottom line and next steps
Keep this order: confirm it’s retired → stop all charging and discharging → tape the contacts and store alone → hand it to hazardous waste or a recycler. Swollen packs go first, without delay. Ready to replace what you retired? YO’s NP-FZ100 compatible battery (2280mAh / about 16.4Wh) is around $17.89, about $22.93 with one battery and a charger, and about $36.74 for two batteries and a charger; Sony’s original sells for $70 and up. Prefer extra margin? The TNP-FZ100 (2400mAh / about 17.3Wh) is around $19.66, or about $39.92 for the two-battery kit. To make the replacements last, work through five habits that extend NP-FZ100 life. Studios and rental houses managing bulk retirement alongside orders of 100 units or more should reach us at the wholesale inquiry page for volume pricing.