It works, but keep two different things apart: charging the NP-FZ100 while it sits in the body via USB-C, and charging a removed pack in a USB charger. The first depends on whether your body supports USB power or charging. Newer bodies such as the A7 IV, A7S III, A7R V, A9 III, A1, FX3 and A7C II generally do; older ones may not, or only under certain conditions. The second has nothing to do with the body — any USB charger built for the FZ100 form factor will do it. In-body charging means one less thing in the bag, at the cost of a camera you cannot shoot with and a speed that is limited at both ends.
Two Different “USB Charging” Setups
- In-body charging: a USB-C cable goes into the camera, and the body’s internal circuitry charges the installed pack. It needs firmware and hardware support, and the body is occupied while it happens.
- USB charger: the pack comes out and goes into a charger that takes USB input, fed by a phone brick, power bank or car adapter. Body-independent, so it works with any FZ100 camera.
If your body does not support USB charging, the second route still gives you the convenience of carrying only USB cables. The buying criteria are in how to choose an NP-FZ100 charger.
Three Things About the Real Experience
- Convenient but slow: the internal charging circuit is deliberately conservative. Filling a pack rated around 2280mAh / 16.4Wh typically takes several hours, so a charger is faster when you are in a hurry.
- Limited by the power source: a low-output brick or a laptop USB port is slower still, and may only hold the level steady rather than raise it. With a power bank, whether charging even starts depends on its output capability.
- The body is tied up: you cannot pick the camera up and shoot while it is charging, which makes it inefficient for a rotate-packs-as-you-go workflow.
So the sensible role for in-body charging is overnight at the hotel or at home, or topping up between setups. It is not the answer when you need a full pack before you walk out the door.
When Not to Rely on It
- A working rhythm that burns through two or three packs a day — a charger can fill one while you shoot with another, and the body cannot.
- When the body is already warm. Charging after a long shoot stacks heat on top of heat; let it cool first.
- Long recording sessions on a dummy battery or external supply, where the power logic is different; see uninterrupted power for video and streaming.
- With unknown bricks or damaged cables. Unstable voltage and underspecified cable gauge are common sources of trouble.
Can You Shoot While Charging?
Some bodies accept external power: connect USB-C and the body draws from the supply first, so the pack neither discharges nor, in some cases, stops charging entirely. That is genuinely useful for fixed-position streaming and timelapse. The caveat is heat — continuous supply warms both body and pack, and long high-load recording can trip thermal protection. For genuinely uninterrupted recording, a dummy battery with an AC adapter is the more stable answer.
A Sensible Mobile Power Setup
When you are away from a wall, the efficient combination is a USB-input charger, a power bank and one reliable USB-C cable. That covers charging a removed pack and topping up the body with the same kit. Travelling with a light USB charger is more flexible than carrying a second mains charger, and it is easier to plan around; the packing logic is in how many batteries to carry when travelling.
Notes for In-Body Charging
- Confirm your body supports USB charging or power delivery, and read the relevant section of the manual.
- Use a brick and cable you trust and that are in good condition. No frayed cables.
- Keep the body ventilated. No charging inside a camera bag or under a blanket.
- Pause if the body or pack becomes clearly hot.
- For long-term storage, keep packs at roughly 40–60% and top up every three months. Do not leave the camera plugged in as a storage solution.
FAQ
Does in-body charging harm the battery?
The body has its own charge management circuitry, so normal use adds no extra wear. Heat stacking and long storage at full charge are the things that actually shorten life.
My power bank is connected but the level keeps dropping
The input is not enough to cover what the body is drawing, so you are only slowing the decline. Move to a higher-output bank, or take the pack out and use a USB charger.
Do all Sony bodies charge over USB-C?
No. Older models differ in charging conditions and supported power, so go by your manual. If you are unsure, a USB charger is the safer route.
Is a fast-charge brick worth using?
It will not hurt, but the body’s internal circuit sets the current, so you are unlikely to gain much speed. The real benefit is a more stable supply.
Whichever way you charge, the spares themselves need to be sound. YO’s NP-FZ100 compatible battery is rated around 2280mAh / 7.2V / 16.4Wh: about $17.89 for a single pack, about $22.93 with one charger, about $36.74 for two batteries and a charger. If you want more capacity, the TNP-FZ100 is the 2400mAh / roughly 17.3Wh version. Bulk orders go through wholesale enquiry, where orders over 100 units are quoted per batch.